Heart of Darkness

Christopher of Back to Iraq 3.0 has a really good, absolutely heart-breaking post, summing up his feelings about being in Iraq.
"People die on a daily basis in random, terrifying attacks. And for what? Freedom? Stability? Peace? There is none of that here and it’s likely there won’t be after the Americans leave. Iraq has spiraled into a dark place, much worse than where it was a year ago during the war. There is no freedom from the fear that is stoked by mutual hatred, cynicism and an apprehension about the future. So what if one side has superior firepower? Every bullet fired helps kill souls on both sides of this war, whether it hits flesh or lands harmlessly.
"We — Iraqis and the Americans here — are caged by fear, and we are all conquered people now."